Dear Family & Friends,
If the process of gaining a visa for Belarus was difficult, getting
out of the country was truly an endeavor.
Leaving Minsk by train for Kiev takes me from Belarus to Ukraine. Of
all the countries of the former Soviet Union, Ukraine seems to be having
the most trouble. The former president is being held for extradition in
the US. Corruption is bad even by Russian standards and the militia, as
the police are called here, are among the most abusive of their power.
The relations between Ukraine and other former Soviet Union countries is
often a love/hate relationship. At the moment, it is mostly hate.
This was my first trip alone on a Russian train. Other trips had been
with Larisa or a translator or both. I introduced myself in Russian to
my compartment mate who responded in English that his name was Vladimir.
In another of those wonderful positive experiences here, I would be
traveling overnight with someone who spoke my language.
Vladimir has two jobs, of course. All Russians have their
"job" then they have their business that actually makes them
some money. Vladimir's job is a engineer for a packaging factory. When
the steward brought us our tea, the package of sugar was one from
Vladimir's company. Where Vladimir makes his money is in the modeling
business. No, not gorgeous Russian women showing the latest fashions
(damn!) but in those scale models of cars, trucks, planes, and boats.
Vladimir imports and distributes models and was on his way to a
convention of modelers.
As the evening progressed I mentioned my computer and the artwork I
had purchased in February but was now bringing with me on my way home.
"Oh, oh." are not words you want someone to say about your
stuff when you are heading for a border.
Vladimir had made the trip between Belarus and Ukraine many times and
knows the customs and visa process well. I would have little problem
with the visa, but my computer could be considered "electronic
intelligence" and the artwork needed all sorts of special
documentation to prove I was not removing a national treasure from
Belarus. Well, I had the documents for the art, but I was not about to
have my computer confiscated.
I dug out my declaration that I made when I arrived in Belarus and
the one I made when I arrived in Russia to make sure all was complete.
Yes, the computer was listed as was my cell phone (high frequency
communication device). I really should not have any trouble, but the
customs militia are paid about $40 a month. Their "other job"
is hassling tourists for bribes to make enough to actually survive. The
smaller the town, the bigger the problem. Of course, we were heading for
a small town.
Vladimir offered to help me as needed. I suggested we should start
the process with me speaking little Russian (quite truthful, actually)
and him jumping in only if things get bad. We had our plans set and
after helping me complete the Belarusian exit declaration and the
Ukrainian entry declaration we retired until the train would be stopped
for the first of a series of inspections.
Just before departing Belarus the trains stopped for the Belarusian
customs agents to come aboard. Being American I was immediately
targeted. The first question; "How much money do you have?"
This is actually a legitimate question, but I was concerned that it was
the first question. One of the two agents spoke English well enough to
tell me to make another copy of the declaration and asked to see the
documents for the artwork. He and his older partner went over every
detail of the authorization from the Belarusian ministry of culture that
allowed me to take this impressionistic pastel out of Belarus. They were
so caught up in the artwork that they did not even ask about the
computer clearly listed on the declaration. With appropriate protocol
and stern politeness, they stamped my declaration and went on their way.
Round One was over without a blow.
Thirty minutes later, after we had entered Ukraine territory, the
train was stopped again so the Ukrainian militia could board and check
visas. Being American I was immediately targeted. Again Vladimir played
dumb and I stumbled through the process that took only a few minutes to
stamp my visa that I was officially and legally in Ukraine. Round Two
was over with only a whisper.
Another 45 minutes more of traveling, again the train is stopped.
This time it is the Ukrainian customs militia. Being American I was
immediately targeted. They wanted to go over every detail of that piece
of art entering their country. Apparently they are concerned about
Belarusian artifacts in Ukraine. Several questions and making another
copy of my Ukraine entry declaration, and another official stamp on an
official piece of paper and my stuff was officially and legally in
Ukraine.
It took three train stops in two countries, but I had made it. Thanks
to all the interest in my artwork, no one noticed my computer or other
"electronic data intelligence". Not one bribe was asked nor
offered. I was almost disappointed, but finally we could sleep for a
continuous four hours before we arrived in Kiev.
Upon arrival Vladimir stayed around until my Kiev translator, Rimma,
arrived. As we said our goodbyes he provided his business card. Yes, I
will keep in touch.
Glenn
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